I Left My Heart ... In San Miguel

Being cooped up at home and not being able to travel makes me think back to some of the nicest places I’ve visited in the past. 

In the fall of 2016, I decided to take a trip to meet my long-lost cousin for the first time. I had known for years that he had fled Cuba to live in Mexico but I hadn’t paid much attention as to exactly where in Mexico he lived. 

I have traveled to Mexico by air and by sea various times; mostly to the touristy spots (Mexico City, Puerto Vallarta, Acapulco, Tulum, Taxco, Cancun, Cozumel). I had never heard of San Miguel de Allende and, given the vast size of the country (about one fifth the size of the US), I had no clue as to what part of Mexico it was located in. 

It wasn’t until I started making my travel plans, that I realized it was literally the heart of Mexico. It isn’t easy to get to from many U.S. cities. It is located in the far eastern part of Guanajuato, Mexico, a part of the Bajío region, about 170 miles northwest of Mexico City. I flew to Mexico City then took a bus to Queretaro, the Capital of Guanajuato (about a 4 hour ride). My cousin met me in Queretaro and we drove 45 minutes to San Miguel de Allende.

My first impression of this colonial-era city in Mexico’s central highlands was nothing short of breathtaking. We drove right into the city’s historic, cobblestoned center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where the neo-Gothic church — Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel, inspired by Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, sits with its pink towers that rise above the main plaza, El Jardin. This city is known for its baroque Spanish architecture, thriving arts scene and cultural festivals. The Templo de San Francisco church nearby has an 18th-century churrigueresque facade. The city’s rich history dates back to 1542 when it played an important role as a hub in the silver trade.

In the historic center, it is mandated that homes, churches, civic structures, businesses…just about every original structure…retain its historic, original appearance. And that is strictly-enforced here. At each corner, I caught a sight of narrow streets, cobblestone or flagstone, lined with homes in shades of bright yellow, red, orange, and brown terracotta, barrel-tile roofs. It is challenging to drive a car here, but it’s definitely a pleasant place to take a long walk, exploring the architectural splendor that includes grand homes with wrought iron bars and imposing wooden doors, baroque churches with carved archways depicting religious scenes, and much more. In the commercial areas, the streets are lined with inviting shops selling all kinds of crafts. Heart shaped souvenirs are most popular, as San Miguel de Allende is indeed known as “The Heart of Mexico”.

As you turn the corner, you’ll often come into plazas and parks filled with shady trees and benches. These are hubs of activity with food vendors, couples strolling hand in hand, playing children, and chatting retirees.

It may be interesting to know that at the beginning of the 20th century, San Miguel De Allende was in danger of becoming a ghost town after an influenza pandemic. Gradually, its Baroque/Neoclassical colonial structures were “discovered” by foreign artists who moved in and began art and cultural institutes such as the Instituto Allende and the Escuela de Bellas Artes.

The vacation rental I stayed in could be easily called a hidden treasure. A Colonial home, historic inside and out, although renovated with updated electric and plumbing, as well as high-speed internet. An interior courtyard with a garden and fountain, intricate decorative tile work, vaulted ceilings with the original timbers…it was like living in history.

Because it is located in the high sierra, the air is crisp and clean. Coincidentally, the light and changing colors of the foothills of the Sierra Madre give way to impressive sunrises and sunsets. And the climate is pleasant year-round, staying in the 70s F most days and cooling down at night to the 50s F. It is often described by some as “eternal spring.” For this reason, many of San Miguel de Allende’s restaurants and bars are on rooftops, offering beautiful city views. 

It did not surprise me that, in 2017 San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, was voted the best city in the world for the first time — beating out major travel destinations like Florence and Capetown.

Oh how I wish I could travel again….

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